masha’s make-it-work marais

This post is about the time I attempted to sew the Marais Knit Top + Dress pattern but ended up making quite a few mistakes along the way. Despite my missteps, I managed to create a top that I'm actually quite fond of. A few months back, I quickly created a muslin of this pattern. To my delight, the size large D-cup fit almost perfectly straight out of the packet. However, life got busy, and the muslin disappeared into the chaos of my sewing space. When I finally returned to the Marais pattern, I only recalled being satisfied with the fit, so I cut out another size large D. For this version, I used the last of a medium-weight navy jersey knit from my stash. I’m unsure of its exact composition, but it includes both rayon and Lycra, offering better stretch and recovery compared to my muslin fabric. One thing I remembered from my muslin was that using the serger made it difficult to sew the bodice seams neatly. This time, I opted for a sewing machine, which proved to be a much better choice. After assembling the bodice, I was disappointed to discover that the neckline was slightly too low. There were several reasons for this: 1. I hadn’t included the facings on my muslin, so I overlooked that the neckline would be 3/8” deeper once added. 2. My cutting might not have been precise. 3. The final fabric was heavier than the muslin. I had already serged the facing onto the neckline, contrary to the pattern's recommendation to use a sewing machine. It’s possible that stretching occurred during this process, contributing to the low neckline. Since I didn’t want to unpick it, I decided to take two tucks out of the neckline to raise it. While this added some bulk, it’s barely noticeable when worn. Adjusting the neckline is something I frequently need to do, so I’ll make this change to the pattern for future versions. When it came time to bind the armholes, I serged the binding to the armhole, even though I knew it wasn’t ideal. The resulting seam was bulkier than expected. I hesitated to remove it, knowing it wouldn’t look good if folded and stitched as directed. Instead, I wrapped the binding over the seam allowance and stitched in the ditch of the seam line, creating a band. Surprisingly, it worked well, and I’m pleased with the result. The inside finish isn’t perfect since I didn’t fold the binding over on the inside, but I’ve never been overly concerned about the garment’s interior appearance. At the end of the sewing process, I realized I should have lengthened the top by about two inches. Being 5'8", I prefer my tops to be a bit longer. If I hadn’t misplaced my muslin, I would have noted this earlier. To address the issue, I added length by attaching some vintage crochet trim from my grandmother’s stash. I stretched the hem slightly while sewing to ensure the woven trim wasn’t too tight, but I should have stretched it less—resulting in a slightly more peplum-like effect than intended. As you can see, I made numerous adjustments on the fly. This isn’t the first time I’ve had to improvise during a project. Fortunately, my changes turned out well, and I ended up with a top I enjoy wearing. From the photos, you can see that I’ve paired it with both shorts and high-waisted pants. High-waisted pants suit my style better, and I plan to wear it that way for the rest of the summer. I have some orange jersey fabric set aside for a second version. For that, I intend to add 2” in length and adjust the neckline to avoid needing darts next time. What about you? Do you adapt when a project doesn’t go as planned, or do you pivot to something new? (adsbygoogle = window.adsbygoogle || []).push({});

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