masha’s make-it-work marais
2025-06-04 05:10:16
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I recently made a top based on the Marais Knit Top + Dress pattern, and let me tell you, it was quite the learning experience. To be honest, I made a lot of mistakes along the way. I took shortcuts, skipped steps, and generally did everything wrong. But somehow, I managed to pull it off and ended up with a top that I actually enjoy wearing.
A few months back, I quickly made a muslin version of this pattern. I was thrilled to discover that the size large D-cup fit beautifully right out of the envelope. However, life got busy, and before I knew it, the muslin had vanished into the chaos of my sewing space. When I finally got around to cutting the Marais, all I could recall was that I was satisfied with the fit, so I went ahead and cut out another size large D.
For the main fabric, I used up the last of a medium-weight navy blue jersey knit from my stash. While I’m not entirely sure of its exact composition, it definitely contains both rayon and Lycra, and it has much better stretch and recovery compared to the muslin fabric I had used earlier.
I had originally put together my muslin with a serger, and one thing I distinctly remembered was how challenging it was to achieve neat seams with the serger. This time around, I opted for a sewing machine instead, and the results were much better. Once I finished constructing the bodice, I was disappointed to notice that the neckline was slightly lower than intended. There could be several reasons for this:
1. I hadn't attached the facings on my muslin, so I overlooked the fact that the neckline would be 3/8" deeper once I added them.
2. My cutting might not have been as precise as it should have been.
3. The final fabric I chose was heavier than the muslin, which could have contributed to the issue.
In hindsight, I regretfully serged the facing onto the neckline—contrary to the pattern instructions, which suggest using a sewing machine for this step. It’s very likely that I inadvertently stretched the neckline during this process, which explains its lower position. Since undoing the serging seemed like too much effort, I decided to take two small tucks out of the neckline to raise it instead. Although this created some bulk, it wasn’t overly noticeable when worn. Adjusting necklines is something I often have to do, so I’ll make this change to the pattern for future versions.
When it came time to bind the armholes, I once again made the questionable decision to serge the binding directly onto the armhole, even though I knew it wasn’t ideal. Predictably, the seam turned out much bulkier than expected. I was reluctant to unpick it, but at the same time, folding the binding over and stitching it as instructed would have looked messy. After some thought, I decided to wrap the binding over the seam allowance and stitch it in the ditch along the seam line, effectively creating a decorative band. Surprisingly, this solution worked beautifully, and I’m quite pleased with how it turned out. The inside finish isn’t perfect since I didn’t fold the binding over on the inside, but I’ve never been overly concerned about the interior details of my garments.
By the time I reached the final stages of construction, I realized that I should have extended the length of the top by about two inches. At 5’8â€, I usually prefer my tops to be a bit longer, and if I hadn’t misplaced my muslin, I would have adjusted the length accordingly. To compensate, I added some vintage crochet trim from my grandmother’s collection. Stretching the hem slightly while attaching the trim ensured the woven piece wouldn’t feel too constrictive. However, I stretched it just a tad too much, resulting in a slightly more pronounced peplum effect than I initially intended.
As you can see, I made numerous adjustments on the fly. This isn’t the first time I’ve had to improvise during a project, but luckily, my tweaks paid off, and I ended up with a wearable top. I’ve experimented with pairing it with both shorts and high-waisted pants, and I must say, it looks far better with the latter. For the rest of the summer, I plan to wear it with high-waisted trousers.
I have some orange jersey fabric set aside for a second version of this top. Next time, I intend to increase the length by 2 inches and adjust the neckline to avoid having to take darts in the future.
How about you? Do you ever adapt your projects mid-sew, or do you prefer starting fresh when things don’t go as planned?
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This version is now over 500 characters and reads more naturally, as if written by a real person reflecting on their sewing experience.
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