Apparel Material Science - Basic Knowledge of Clothing (Continued 5)

Second, hemp fabric (a) hemp fabric characteristics

Hemp fabric refers to hemp fabrics (including ramie and linen), pure fabrics and their blends or interlocking fabrics. It has the following features:

1. Hemp fiber is a cellulose fiber whose fabric has similar properties to cotton.

2. Hemp fabric has the characteristics of high strength, good hygroscopicity, and strong heat conduction, especially the strength ranks first among natural fibers.

3. Burlap dyeing performance is good, bright color, not fade.

4. It is not sensitive to alkalis and acids. Mercerization can occur in caustic soda to increase strength and gloss. After dilute acid for a short period of time (1 to 2 minutes), no substantial change occurs. Of course, strong acids still hurt it.

5. Good anti-fungal, easy to damp moldy.

(b) Types of hemp fabrics

The variety of hemp fabrics is much less than that of cotton fabrics and woolen fabrics, but due to its unique rough style and cool moisture permeability, coupled with the return of the natural tide in recent years, its variety has become increasingly rich.

1. Pure hemp fabric

(1) Ramie Fabric Ramie fabric is a woven fabric made of ramie fiber, which is divided into two types, hand-made and woven. Handmade ramie cloth, commonly known as Xiabu, is used for mosquito nets, hemp linings, and interlining materials because of its uneven quality. The quality and appearance of woven ramie are better than that of handcrafted summer fabrics. The fabrics are tightly flat and smooth. After bleaching or dyeing, various garments can be made. Ramie clothing is very cool, breathable and sweaty, it is an ideal summer fabric.

(2) Linen fabrics Linen fabrics are made from linen fibers, divided into primary colors and bleached. The original color linen is not bleached and dyed, and it has the natural color of linen fibers. Bleached linen is bleached and mercerized, softer, smoother and more elastic than the original fabric. Linen fabrics have become the fabrics of various types of summer garments such as outerwear, shirts, curtains, and sofa fabrics due to their fine and smooth fabric surface, soft and elastic feel, and the advantages of being cool and comfortable, and not sweating.

(3) Other hemp fabrics In addition to ramie cloth and linen fabrics, there are many other hemp fabrics such as yellow hessian, kennel hemp, banana hemp, etc. These hemp fabrics are rarely used in clothing, and are often used for packaging bags, fishing boats and ropes. In addition, Apocynum clothing, which is very popular in recent years, is increasingly recognized and accepted by people as a kind of health apparel.

2. Hemp blended, interwoven fabric

Ramie and flax fibers can be blended or interwoven with other fibers, and most of them are low-proportion hemp fibers blended with chemical fibers or natural fibers. The purpose is to set the length of various types of fibers and make them short, so that the performance of the fabric is more excellent. Can reduce the cost of prices, welcomed by consumers.

(1) Ramie/Cotton Interwoven Fabrics Ramie/cotton blended fabrics are generally blended with 55% hemp and 45% cotton or 50% of hemp and cotton. The appearance of the hemp fabric maintains a unique rough style, but also has the soft characteristics of the cotton fabric, improve the shortcomings of the linen fabric is not fine and clean, easy to fluff. Cotton and linen intertwined fabrics are mostly made of cotton, linen and weft. The texture is firm and smooth, and the texture is soft and pure. The intertwined fabrics of linen/cotton blends are mostly lightweight and are suitable for summer clothing.

(2) Wool Blend Fabric A variety of fabrics woven from different proportions of Wool Blended Yarn are used, including Woolen Hairstyle and various Wool Tweeds. Wool and linen blended fabrics have the characteristics of smooth, crisp, elastic and suitable for making young men and women clothing, suits, skirts, and vests.

(3) Silk and linen fabrics The silk and sand fabrics are new products developed in recent years using sand washing technology. It combines the excellent properties of silk fabrics and hemp fabrics, while also overcoming the weaknesses in the strength reduction of silk sand washing fabrics, resulting in a cool and elastic feel. This fabric is suitable for making summer clothing.

(4) Hemp and chemical fiber blended fabrics include hemp and a chemical fiber blended fabric, hemp and two or more chemical fiber blended fabrics. Such as: polyester hemp, weaving, viscose and other fabrics, "three in one" fabric.

a. Polyester/Aramid: It refers to a fabric made of polyester/hemp blended yarn or a weft/wool yarn made of polyester/arabined yarn. Including polyester twist taffeta, polyester linen weaving, linen and polyester and linen fine spinning, polyester and linen golf and other varieties. Polyester and linen have the properties of polyester and hemp fibers, which are breathable and have a strong hair type. Suitable for making suits, fashions, skirts, jackets, etc.

b. "Three in one" blended fabric: Refers to the blended fabric of hemp and two fibers, such as polyester wool, polyester cotton, and dinitrile. This fabric not only has the characteristics of cool, comfortable and breathable linen fabric, but also has the excellent characteristics of the other two kinds of fibers, such as polyester, wool, hemp, linen, wool and polyester tweed elasticity, easy to wrinkle, and easy. The features of wash-free ironing can meet the needs of various uses, and are very suitable for making all kinds of fashions, jackets, skirts, and trousers for men and women.

Third, silk fabric

(I) Characteristics of silk fabrics

Silk fabrics mainly refer to purely spun or blended and intertwined textiles that are made from silk as raw materials. Because of its unique excellent intake, silk fabrics have been widely used. Its main features are as follows:

1. Silk fabrics have good strength and elasticity, but poor anti-wrinkle properties.

2. Silk fabrics have good hygroscopicity, dyeability, and luster. The dyed fabrics are bright and shiny. Its moisture content can reach 11~12%.

3. Silk fabrics are resistant to acid and alkali. It has a certain stability to inorganic acids (strong inorganic acid can make silk hydrolyze), sensitive to alkali reaction, but stable to wool.

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